Blueprinting

"Blueprinting is an exact science which involves modifying an engine to comply with its original manufacturers design tolerances and/or any newly developed specifications which increase the engines operational efficiency."

When Blueprinting golf clubs, they are hand-crafted and measured to a high level of precision and accuracy which in turn means they can be built to exacting tolerances and specifications for optimal performance and the process can be replicated for a matching set or a replacement club.

This is my own engineering methodology for Blueprinting golf clubs:

Shaft Certification

Shaft certification comprises of a series of inspections and measurements I carry out on every shaft to ensure the shafts meet the exacting standards of my own quality control process. The shaft certification process is identical for all types of shaft.

Check Head Specifications

Next, each club head is checked and, if necessary, adjusted for loft and lie.

(This process is carried out before I begin assembly as changes afterwards can affect the swingweight/ MOI of the club).

Then, each club head is weighed on a calibrated digital scale. When building a set of irons there should be a difference in weight between each club head. This varies depending on the specifications of length and swingweight/MOI identified and agreed during the build interview or fitting. Typically this should be a consistent difference of 7g to 8g between each head. 

Finally, the weight of any required tip/ hosel weights is calculated to maintain a consistent weight differential from club head to club head.

Check Head Measurements

Each club head is then measured with my Hosel to Sole (HTS) gauge. This is to determine two measurements:

Hosel Insertion Depth

How deep the shaft will insert into the hosel.

BBGM

Bottom of Bore to Ground Measurement.

Calculated by subtracting the hosel insertion depth from the overall HTS measurement.

These two measurements are essential for accurately calculating the swingweight/MOI of the golf club.

Grips

Each grip is weighed on a calibrated digital scale. All grips must be within a range of 1g of each other.

Lightest grip goes on the longest club, heaviest grip on the shortest club.

Dry Swingweight/MOI

Each club head is temporarily affixed to the shaft including any hosel or tip weights required. With the club head placed against the stop of the ruler set at the lie angle of the head, I measure and cut each shaft to its playing length. Then I apply the desired number of layers of grip tape and install the grip. I then weigh the ferrule and cut a piece of lead tape, adding 0.5g to the amount to allow for the weight of the epoxy, to act as the weight of the ferrule and apply this lead tape to the hosel. Once the target MOI is achieved, I remove the grip and lead tape.

Spine & FLO Alignment

As I will have already located the plane of FLO with the higher frequency during the Shaft Certification process, I will initially line this mark in the 12-6 orientation and FLO the club with the club head attached. When I have the FLO aligned, I rotate the club head for the scoring lines to be absolutely vertical and check the FLO again. At this point I remove the club from the clamp and mark a line from the hosel extending on to the shaft at least 1.5” to allow for where the ferrule will locate above the hosel.

Preparation

The cone at the top of each hosel is checked and rectified if necessary. Inside of each hosel is cleaned with a wire hosel brush, abraded with a sandpaper cone, blown out with an airline and cleaned to promote the epoxy bond.

Shaft tips are also measured, prepared, abraded, and wiped clean with isopropyl alcohol (IPA). 

Epoxy

I use a high-quality, impact resistant epoxy that I mix with shafting beads to ensure the shaft tip is centred in the hosel.

Wooden dowel (optional)

When building with steel shafts, if chosen, I install a wooden dowel in the tip section of each shaft.

Install club head

When installing the club head, I accurately line up the alignment mark on head and shaft I made during the alignment of the FLO planes.

Re-check swingweight/MOI

At this stage I will re-check the swingweight/MOI and make any adjustments as necessary.

My tolerance is ¼ of 1% of MOI value or 0.3 of a swingweight point across the entire set.

Turn down ferrule

Using a soft felt belt on a belt sander I match the outside of the ferrule to the hosel. I then use acetone to smooth the ferrule.

Install ProSoft inserts (optional)

When building with steel shafts, at this stage, if chosen, the ProSoft insert is installed.

The ProSoft insert dampens vibrations up the shaft and due to its construction does not trap moisture within the shaft.

Install grip

I choose to install grips with compressed air for a number of reasons. First, there are no nasty solvents being used. Second, compressed air allows the grip to be installed and can be used immediately. Finally, using compressed air I do not have to use traditional double-sided tape. 

Instead, I use blue painters tape from 3M. The main advantage to this is that the tape is half the thickness of double-sided tape and I can build up and adjust the thickness of the grip to an exact measurement.

When each grip is installed, I check the thickness of the grip at 2” and 6” from the grip cap with digital callipers. This allows me to ensure every grip feels identical on every club.

Once the build is complete, I take each club and carry out a final inspection.

Checked during the Final Inspection:

Length

Loft

Lie

Swingweight

MOI

Balance Point

Total Weight

Flex – Load Profile

Grip Size

Blueprint Certificate

When each club has passed its final inspection, I clean and protect every club with a wax coating and the final process is to record all of the measurements on your Blueprint Certificate.